Friday, July 18, 2025

From the Tablelands to the Tip

After thousands of kilometres of flat landscapes, our drive up in to the Atherton Tablelands was a complete contrast with winding hilly roads, lush rainforest and misty rain. Sitting at around 800 metres, we expected cooler weather in Atherton but weren’t prepared for it be quite so cold.

 

After pulling out warm clothes, we went exploring. Lovely rainforest walks, waterfalls, wetlands, we even saw two Cassowary.

 



Crater - formed by an explosive eruption of volcanic gases which blasted through solid granite

Dinner Falls

Determined to have an aperitif outside

Malanda Falls but too cold for swimming

Rainforest

Fig tree

Stone Curlew in its natural habitat - the caravan park. 

 

 

We spent 5 days here and then moved onto Cairns for one night. This stop was simply to get Lawrence’s bike adjusted and restock. We’ll get back to Cairns after Cape York. We stayed in a Caravan Park that was a paradise for school kids, but not so much for old fogies like us. 

 

Shopping for essentials in Cairns

 

From we just started heading north stopping at campsites on the way. We are currently in Coen with very little to recommend it except a pub with terrible beer and a low-key camping area. We’ve organised to leave the bikes at Bramwell Roadhouse so they are not bouncing of the back of Boris. They just ask a $25 donation to the Flying Doctor Service – brilliant.

 

Bush camping at Mt Carbine

The road so far as been quite good with more paved than expected, and the gravel not too bad, however from here on in it’s going to be a bumpy ride.

 

We’re seeing a few breakdowns but thankfully not us this time – having spent about 10k on preparations trying to be breakdown proof!!!! I hope that’s not famous last words…

 

 

 Welcome to the Cape
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Monday, July 7, 2025

From Heartbreak Hotel to Hell’s Gate.

 After leaving Darwin again, we headed to famed Daly Waters pub. Thought it might nice to stop for a night and have a meal. Unfortunately so did a about 500 others. We left after an obligatory beer and some photos and found quiet rest area just off the Carpentaria Highway.

 

This highway lulls you into a false sense of security with 120kms of newly built smooth highway. After that it’s a one lane piece of nonsense. Stopped at the Heartbreak Hotel (sadly not down at the end of Lonely St) for coffee and headed to Borroloola for a 2 night stay.


From there it was good run to Hell’s Gate just over the border in QLD. Despite its name, it was a lovely campsite, roadhouse, cafĂ© etc. There’s noticeable improvement in the roads in QLD, so an overnight 'wild camping' spot at lovely Leichardt Falls saw us to Karumba the next day.

 

Leichardt Falls


We had planned to stay for 3 nights but have ended staying for 6 as it’s so lovely. Very low key,  but our campsite is right on the edge of wetland full of interesting birds. Every day we see pelicans, cranes (Brolga and Sarus), radjah shell duck, egrets, heron, bloody ibis, and of course the ever present kites, corellas and magpie larks. AND there are no mosquitos!! Can’t believe it. Weather is still fairly mild, warm days, cool nights – heaven.

 

 


 

We are also a three minute bike ride or ten minute walk to cafes and the tavern which looks out over the Gulf of Carpentaria – a fave hangout.

 

Weve also done some maintenance stuff on Boris (well Lawrence did, I watched)

 

Last night we did a ‘Sunset Cruise’ giving a history of the town followed drinks and prawns on a sand island (aka large sandbar) to watch the sunset. Not much bird life except some pelicans and a couple of osprey. Fun evening.

 






 


 

I also bought a new hat!

 

From here we are heading to Atherton and those Tablelands. There seems to be no end of waterfalls and swimming holes to visit. We might hire a car for a few days to check it all out.