We're Back!!

 

 

Sorry for the radio silence, but my MacBook stopped working altogether – kaput. Lawrence tried everything in the book to get it going again but it was dead.

 

Hence on our next visit to Cairns, a new one was purchased with all the usual set up drama. We had to pay an Apple expert to extract the data from the old and so on…

 

I think I last left you in Cairns for a brief pit stop before heading up to the Tip. We drove up the Peninsular Developmental Road (PDR) with a brief foray onto the Old Tele Track to see the beautiful Fruit Bat falls. We stayed overnight at Bramwell Roadhouse which boasts the best bathrooms I’ve seen on this trip. We could also leave our bikes at the Roadhouse as we didn’t think it’d do them much good being bounced up there and back. Fortunately the road wasn’t as bad as anticipated and after paying the exorbitant sum of $160 to cross the 50 metres of the Jardine River, we arrived at Alau campsite.

Fruit Bat Falls - 
people were swimming but there was a croc warning sign so we took the safe option.

Jardine River crossing

 

 

Torres Strait from Thursay Island

 

 

Lawrence at the Tip

We did a day trip to Thursday Island and got a taste of the Torres Strait. Really worth doing. The second day saw us driving up to the Tip. Once again, the road wasn’t as bad as expected, just  a few ropey bits. We left the next day as the humidity was crushing.

Palm cockatoos

 

 

 

We also see Palm Cocktaoos at the campsite, a real thrill for Lawrence as there were on his ‘must see’ list. They were very obliging and hung around long enough to get some good shots. Crazy looking birds. They remind me of Queen Camilla's hats.

 

 

After leaving the Tip, we headed to the Portland Roads are and stayed at the Greenhoose. It wasn’t exactly luxury accommodation, and the bed was smaller that the one on Boris. I had to sidle sideways to get into the bathroom. However it has a reputation for good birdlife and Lawrence really keen to see a magnificent rifle bird. We could hear those damn birds very clearly, but see one, never. Nobody did, not even the professionals that were there.

  

 

If you look closely at the photo of tree trunk, you’ll see a female eclectus parrot sitting on her nest. A very beautiful and devoted mother to be.

Eclectus Parrot

 

 

 

We drove to Portland Roads and Chilli Beach for the day. It was worth it just for the lunch. The best prawn rolls to be had.

Chilli Beach

Prawn Rolls at Portland Roads - wine was essential

 

I'll write another blog about Cooktown, the Daintree, and a revisit to the Atherton Tablelands very soon.

From the Tablelands to the Tip

After thousands of kilometres of flat landscapes, our drive up in to the Atherton Tablelands was a complete contrast with winding hilly roads, lush rainforest and misty rain. Sitting at around 800 metres, we expected cooler weather in Atherton but weren’t prepared for it be quite so cold.

 

After pulling out warm clothes, we went exploring. Lovely rainforest walks, waterfalls, wetlands, we even saw two Cassowary.

 

Crater - formed by an explosive eruption of volcanic gases which blasted through solid granite

Dinner Falls

Determined to have an aperitif outside

Malanda Falls but too cold for swimming

Rainforest

Fig tree

Stone Curlew in its natural habitat - the caravan park.

 

 

 

We spent 5 days here and then moved onto Cairns for one night. This stop was simply to get Lawrence’s bike adjusted and restock. We’ll get back to Cairns after Cape York. We stayed in a Caravan Park that was a paradise for school kids, but not so much for old fogies like us. 

 

Shopping for essentials in Cairns

 

From we just started heading north stopping at campsites on the way. We are currently in Coen with very little to recommend it except a pub with terrible beer and a low-key camping area. We’ve organised to leave the bikes at Bramwell Roadhouse so they are not bouncing of the back of Boris. They just ask a $25 donation to the Flying Doctor Service – brilliant.

 

Bush camping at Mt Carbine

The road so far as been quite good with more paved than expected, and the gravel not too bad, however from here on in it’s going to be a bumpy ride.

 

We’re seeing a few breakdowns but thankfully not us this time – having spent about 10k on preparations trying to be breakdown proof!!!! I hope that’s not famous last words…

 

 

 

 Welcome to the Cape

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Heartbreak Hotel to Hell’s Gate.

 After leaving Darwin again, we headed to famed Daly Waters pub. Thought it might nice to stop for a night and have a meal. Unfortunately so did a about 500 others. We left after an obligatory beer and some photos and found quiet rest area just off the Carpentaria Highway.

 

This highway lulls you into a false sense of security with 120kms of newly built smooth highway. After that it’s a one lane piece of nonsense. Stopped at the Heartbreak Hotel (sadly not down at the end of Lonely St) for coffee and headed to Borroloola for a 2 night stay.

From there it was good run to Hell’s Gate just over the border in QLD. Despite its name, it was a lovely campsite, roadhouse, café etc. There’s noticeable improvement in the roads in QLD, so an overnight 'wild camping' spot at lovely Leichardt Falls saw us to Karumba the next day.

 

Leichardt Falls

We had planned to stay for 3 nights but have ended staying for 6 as it’s so lovely. Very low key,  but our campsite is right on the edge of wetland full of interesting birds. Every day we see pelicans, cranes (Brolga and Sarus), radjah shell duck, egrets, heron, bloody ibis, and of course the ever present kites, corellas and magpie larks. AND there are no mosquitos!! Can’t believe it. Weather is still fairly mild, warm days, cool nights – heaven.

 

 

 

We are also a three minute bike ride or ten minute walk to cafes and the tavern which looks out over the Gulf of Carpentaria – a fave hangout.

 

Weve also done some maintenance stuff on Boris (well Lawrence did, I watched)

 

Last night we did a ‘Sunset Cruise’ giving a history of the town followed drinks and prawns on a sand island (aka large sandbar) to watch the sunset. Not much bird life except some pelicans and a couple of osprey. Fun evening.

 

 

 

I also bought a new hat!

 

From here we are heading to Atherton and those Tablelands. There seems to be no end of waterfalls and swimming holes to visit. We might hire a car for a few days to check it all out.

 

 

Kaka – who? Kakadu

 

We’re currently in Mataranka along with half the population of Australia.

 

As promised we headed back to Kakadu and went up to Ubirr where we had planned to stay for 2 nights. The viscous mosquitos changed our minds. A heavy cloud cover came in in the afternoon bring humidity and mozzies with it. We had mosquito coils, citronella candles, thermacell – the whole shebang but that didn’t faze these mozzies. Generally I boast that they don’t bite me but these NT mozzies thought I was the best thing since hairspray in a can.

 

The next morning the sheet was covered in blood smears and dead insects. YUK.

 

We went to see the rock art – which is truly amazing. One of the few places where they have so-called x-ray art. The skeletons of the animals are visible. There’s even a Thylacine which were believed to have been wiped out around 4000 years ago by the dingoes.

 

Next up Cooinda campsite in North Kakadu with its excellent facilities. We did the sunrise cruise on the Yellow Waters billabong and river system. Lots of Jabiru, Sea Eagles, grumpy looking Nankeen Night Heron, thousands of Whistling Ducks, Egrets of every description, Darters, Jacana, White necked and pied Heron and more that I can’t remember. 

Cold beer after a swim on a hot hot day in Kakadu

 

 

Whistling ducks

Darter

Jacana 

 

It was pretty hot and the mozzies were doing our heads in, so we only stayed 2 nights, rather than the 3 we’d booked.

A lot of Kakadu was closed due to the recent heavy rain with many sites and waterfalls inaccessible. 

 

Did an overnighter at Bark Hut Roadhouse and campsite. What a great find, much nicer than Corroboree Park. Next night at Humpty Doo – an experience that doesn’t need to be repeated.

 

So now we are in Mataranka. I may be exaggerating but it seems like there is 1000 vehicles here of all shapes and sizes. We parked out in the Boonies, but were surrounded in no time, so moved a spot where we couldn’t be out manoeuvred. Very anti-social behaviour, but hey, we like our privacy.

 

The source of the spring

Swimming hole

The thermal springs themselves are simply stunning but of course very crowded. We went down early this morning to beat the crowd and there was just a few old fogies like us there. The water is astonishingly clear and sits at about 34 degrees. What a great way to start your day. We followed up with a bacon and egg muffin.

 

We’ll hang around here for another day or 2 and the head to QLD. We have no real agenda now and plan to tackle the Savannah Way depending the state of roads.

 

Never Smile At A Crocodile

 

 

I last left you in Broome where we had 120mms of rain – most unseasonal. This meant that the road into the Bungle Bungle was closed. We’d been hesitating about doing it as we knew the road would be chopped up, but the decision was made for us. Shame.

 

First stop was Wilare roadhouse overnight, followed by Larrawa Station then arriving in Kununurra for a few days. We caught up with our Kiwi mates, Joanna and Bob and did some walking. We even managed to feed them a decent dinner of Risotto with Porcini.

 

We stayed in Kununurra as Lawrence needed to renew his Driver’s Licence, which can only be done 6 months before expiry – June 1^st. But we forgot about the public holiday – a result of being retirees. We rocked up at 8.15 sharp on the Tuesday only to find out that they had decided to have another day off… groan. We’ll figure out the licence thing another time as we had a booking at Edith Falls and didn’t want to miss a day as it’s our favourite spot. 

 

We crossed from WA into the NT and noticed a marked deterioration in the condition of the road surface. We’re so lucky in WA with our wide, straight, well maintained roads. Driving through the Victoria River area is stunning and we stayed overnight at the lovely Victoria River Roadhouse.            

 

Well I have to admit it’s now several days later. I’ve been distracted.

 

Our next stop was the wonderful Edith Falls. We’ve been here several times before and it’s one of our favourite spots in the NT. Sadly, the main swimming hole was closed due the incredible amount of rain they’d had – 200mm overnight. The upside of this is that the falls were pumping and the top pools had so much water in them that they were great for a good dip. Last time they were just rockpools. It also involved a decent amount of exercise as we had to climb the 1km uphill to get there.

 

 

 

From there we headed to Corroborree Billabong (how Australian can you get!) and stayed overnight at the Tavern campsite. We’d booked the sunrise cruise on the billabong but as we were the only ones mad enough to want to get out of bed at 5.30, the cruise didn’t run. We did sunset instead. The birdlife is amazing and also saw a couple of decent sized crocs.

 

 

 

Next stop  - Berry springs area (via a visit to Darwin for shopping etc) and we are staying on the wonderful Tumbling Waters Holiday park. It’s tropical paradise and mercifully the weather is wonderful. Mild warm days and cool nights – a contrast to the last time we were in the NT.

 

Yesterday we did the Territory Wildlife Park. What an amazing place, so much to see and do but our favourite section was the Monsoon Rainforest with its walk-through aviary and of course the spectacular bird show. The aquarium was also incredible interesting, mimicking the different stages of the waters from origin to ocean.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today we did the actual Berry Springs. What a pretty spot, but of course incredibly popular and heaving with tourists and locals. The water is tepid so even I could go straight in without a fuss. Lawrence had to get out as the fish starting nibbling at his toe wound – Nurse Kate bathed it in Betadine. 

 

 

 

From here we’ll be heading backwards and we’ve decided to go the one part of Kakadu again (Yellow Waters) and Ubirr for the rock art.

 

I’ll try not to leave it so long next time – promise!