We've embraced the 'Slow' philosophy as a way of life - what's the hurry?. Taking time to smell the roses (usually on a glass of Viognier) is more our style. Having spent more then 3 years on the road, slow travel has become a way of life. We have revised our plans completely and now focus on quality, not quantity, slowly.
Well we finally left Spain and spent 2
nights in beautiful Assisi before landing on Pam and Mike’s doorstep in Le
As usual they showed us wonderful warm
hospitality and fed us very well. On our last night we went to a tiny local
restaurant and had one of the best meals of our trip. A five course
extravaganza, 2 of which involved truffles. The flavours were divine and I felt
that we really got to understand why truffles are so revered.
We boarded the ferry for Split in Ancona. A
word of warning for anyone contemplating this: Don’t arrive early! You’ll be
squeezed into a dodgy spot at the back. We argued about our position but were
forced to concede and ended up sustaining some damage to Boris. We didn’t
notice it until too late.
Anyway, Split was wonderful. The old town is a riot of
narrow alleyways, arches, tunnels, churches and sunny squares, all squeezed into
the original walls of Diocletian’s Palace. It’s tiny and fascinating.
Diocletian's Palace Walls
From the Campsite
We met Jimmy in the campsite who gave us
some wonderful advice re avoiding Bosnia (and the brutish border guards) and
seeing some spectacular scenery – thanks Jimmy. This led us to Pleljesac –
which on first glance looks like an island but is actually a peninsular. It’s a
really good way to avoid the bit of coast that belongs to Bosnia.
It also has the added bonus of being the
wine growing area – and it’s incredibly beautiful. From there we drove to
Dubrovnik and as expected the coastal scenery was breath-taking. Pick any
superlative you like – you’ll be right!
We loved Dubrovnik, with its spectacular
setting. The main street is wide and beautifully proportioned, in contrast to
the side streets which are very steep and narrow.
The forecast however, was poor so we
headed south into Montenegro to find somewhere to hunker down. We drove around
the stunning Bay of Kotor to the pretty walled town of Kotor, with its spectacular backdrop of mountains and fortifications. We booked into a quaint
hotel for a much needed shower and hair wash. We hadn’t had a bathroom since
Split (long story). Next morning the predicted rain came down by the bucketful.
We drove through driving rain and howling winds. Cliffs became waterfalls,
roads turned in rivers, the sea to mud.
Anyway we found a funny little campsite to
sit it out, with the wind howling like mad and Boris rocking like a bucking
bronco. The gin bottle came out early yesterday.
So now we are waiting for the wind to die
down (at least the rain has stopped) and tomorrow we’ll head for the hills and
check out some of the famous Montenegro monasteries.