Sinking to new lows.

Yes it's true, we've been drinking loads of Rose and keep buying cheaper ones to see how little we can pay it before it becomes undrinkable. The other day we drank a bottle that cost 1 euro 80 cents. It was very drinkable, I'm not sure we can find any cheaper than that!

In contrast last night we had dinner in Limoux at the 'Grand Hotel Moderne et Pigeon' (yes - the modern pigeon!) and spent a large amount on very good wine. The local chardonnay is quite stunning as is the red which is odd blend. We had 2001 chardie and 1998 Baron d'Argues. The meal was outstanding. I had scallops with minestrone, L has oysters, followed by wild boar for me and hare for L. Both were just sensational. I had the best mushrooms I've ever eaten.

We spent the night at the hotel as a birthday treat, and I got to soak in a bath.

Chateau de Queribus

Over the last few days we've climbed every castle stair that we could find. These castles were built with defence and fortification as the major feature. How they ever built them and lived in them is beyond our comprehension. The climb up to some of them is quite challenging and certainly good for the gluteus maximus.

The scenery around here is breathtaking (as is some of the driving on these roads). From Chateau Queribus we could see to the mediterranean and across to the snow capped peaks of the Pyrenees. We are virtually in the foothills, so the countryside is dramatic, with deep gorges, soaring peaks and sweeping valleys.

We leave our pretty little camping spot tomorrow and head south. We'll do a few nights of 'free camping' on our way to Barcelona, spending one night in Figues and winging it on the other nights. We should arrive in Barcelona by Thursday, and will spend maybe a week there.