Across the Pyrenees

I wrote this blog about 5 days ago, but since then our internet access has been very scratchy and we have both been sick as dogs with gastro. Today we are finally in Barcelona, will report back in a day or 2 on our eating binges.

We finally left France on our journey south to find the sun. We had intended to spend our first night near Chateau de Queribus that we had loved and do some walking. Sadly, the weather defeated us so we carried on towards the border, thinking we’d find a ‘free camping’ spot somewhere along the way. I was picturing a pretty spot in the Pyrenees, however our naivety in this endeavour hit us in the face loud and clear when we reached Le Perthus on the France/Spain border. This town was once a duty free haven in its previous life before the European union, and is now a sad, cheap shopping mecca for people with nothing better to do than to take a bus trip with a shopping trolley to buy cheap booze and fake watches.

However, as they say “when life hands you a lemon, make margaritas”, so we bought very cheap good quality gin and calvados and kept going across the border.

We had both been looking forward to Spain, as neither of us had spent a lot of time there, and all the books etc extoll its virtues, NON-STOP.  We crossed into a town called La Jonquerra, and the first person I saw was a hooker. These poor sad street-walkers stand on street corners and in truck laybys waiting for passing trade.  This is a trucker’s city  - I’ve never seen so many trucks in one place. The whole area is an industrial wasteland, one of the most hideous, drab places I’ve seen. 

The view we were hoping for!!

Moving right along (and way past my limit of 3 hours in the truck), we set our sights for Figueres, which has the second most visited gallery in Spain after the Prado – Museu Dali. One look from the highway and I said “keep driving”. This whole area is so ghastly it’s hard to believe.

We decided to head for the motorway, thinking that a service layover would be our best bet for overnight given the paucity of cute towns – in France these are really quite acceptable and often you get a decent view over the hills etc. Not so in this part of the world. We finally stopped at the third one and spent the night sleeping with truckers by the side of the motorway.

Fortunately, we are completely self–contained and could pull up the drawbridge and batten down the hatches, and pretend we were elsewhere (apart from the floodlight beaming in through our skylight). The police cruised by in the morning, and caught my eye as I was making toast ( I thought we were going to get arrested for vagrancy) “Nice truck” they said. You think??” I said. “Where you going?” I resisted saying Malaysia, “Morocco”, Atlas? “Yes”. So there is my entre to Spain. First person I see is a hooker, first night spent with truckies, and first people I speak to are the police.

I must say here that I am in awe of Lawrence’s ability to manoeuvre the yellow beast around these towns and endless roundabouts. I’m not sure how he does it– sheer determination I expect. I also need to say that as chief navigator, I am completely hopeless. The GPS is helpful, but with new roads and endless roadworks, James (the GPS) and I just end up arguing and getting lost, and poor Lawrence has an extra 50 roundabouts to negotiate. It’s a wonder we actually get anywhere.

We had thought to spend a day in Andorra whilst we had the hire car, but read the guidebook the night before setting off and decided against it. The Rough Guide says “Today, the town is a seething mass of bad restaurants, tacky bars and garish shops crammed with everything from cheap booze, perfumes, and watches to cars and appliances. (minus the hookers)” Having seen Le Perthus, we could now imagine it too clearly.  I’d wanted to go there since I was 19 – what a shame I was 30+ years too late.

We are now ensconced in what seems like the world’s biggest caravan park. It’s about the size of Perth. It’s just fine right now as it is off-season, but I cannot imagine it in August, it would be a seething mass of humanity and its dog. We are just south of Barcelona and quite close to the Mediterranean – we can see it from the bar.

Tomorrow we tackle Barcelona. We might spend a couple of nights in hotel in the city if we can find a cheap one, just so we can eat with the Spanish at midnight – maybe.

Adios (that’s about the limit of my Spanish)

Sinking to new lows.

Yes it's true, we've been drinking loads of Rose and keep buying cheaper ones to see how little we can pay it before it becomes undrinkable. The other day we drank a bottle that cost 1 euro 80 cents. It was very drinkable, I'm not sure we can find any cheaper than that!

In contrast last night we had dinner in Limoux at the 'Grand Hotel Moderne et Pigeon' (yes - the modern pigeon!) and spent a large amount on very good wine. The local chardonnay is quite stunning as is the red which is odd blend. We had 2001 chardie and 1998 Baron d'Argues. The meal was outstanding. I had scallops with minestrone, L has oysters, followed by wild boar for me and hare for L. Both were just sensational. I had the best mushrooms I've ever eaten.

We spent the night at the hotel as a birthday treat, and I got to soak in a bath.

Chateau de Queribus

Over the last few days we've climbed every castle stair that we could find. These castles were built with defence and fortification as the major feature. How they ever built them and lived in them is beyond our comprehension. The climb up to some of them is quite challenging and certainly good for the gluteus maximus.

The scenery around here is breathtaking (as is some of the driving on these roads). From Chateau Queribus we could see to the mediterranean and across to the snow capped peaks of the Pyrenees. We are virtually in the foothills, so the countryside is dramatic, with deep gorges, soaring peaks and sweeping valleys.

We leave our pretty little camping spot tomorrow and head south. We'll do a few nights of 'free camping' on our way to Barcelona, spending one night in Figues and winging it on the other nights. We should arrive in Barcelona by Thursday, and will spend maybe a week there.

The Hunt for Cathar Castles

Well we finally left our haven in Monfort, after about 4 weeks. Thanks to the very generous hospitality of Alison and David, we were able spend most of October in divine weather among cute mediaeval villages with wonderful markets and great food.

We took a week out of that to whizz up to Germany to visit family (Barbara and Stuart) whilst we were still within cooee. Had a lovely stay and managed to stop overnight in Beaune on way home. Of course for us this is a bit like Mecca, only wine is compulsory rather than outlawed. A very lovely bottle of Beaune '92 was consumed and as predicted, it was simply divine, just as it should be. Oh, and the meal was really good too. Obviously we didn't whizz in the truck, one doesn't whizz anywhere in a large yellow truck, rather it's more of a rumbly, jolty, noisy, amble. A hired car did the job for us.

We are now in a very quaint mediaeval spa village Alet-les-Bains south of Carcasonne, with its own ruin (and I don't meant the truck). Once again, we've found a lovely campsite, wedged between the Aude River and the city Ramparts. This area just oozes history, so it's easy to get immersed in it. The castles are dotted all over, most of them have been Cathar havens of protection, and annihilated by the nasty Catholics from the northern France (with the Pope's blessing) about 900 years ago.

This village boasts some miracle water, which I'm going to locate tomorrow. I'm not sure whether drink it or wash in it - maybe both. It might help my hideous head cold if nothing else. As the weather has deteriorated, we have hired a car for the week, so we can zip around dry and warm. The flooding has not affected us, just some rain. We are going to stay here until after Lawrence's birthday on the 13th and then head to Spain and find the sun again.

Carcasonne 'La Cite'

We've taken to playing Backgammon in the evenings in the Mog. Having taught Lawrence how to play, I'm being humiliated by his constant besting of me. I have to admit he's a terrible player, who makes moves that make me cringe and he can't count. "No darling, you've thrown a 6 and a 2, and you moved 7 spaces - try again." It must all be bluff as he beats me 3 times out of 4. How can that be fair??? It's clearly a game of luck rather skill, contrary to popular opinion. Tips anyone???

Living with Less

When we were planning this trip, Lawrence was commenting that it would be an interesting exercise for us learning to live with less. How do you think we are doing?

We have;
4 x telephones
2 x computers
5 x GPS options ( each of which seems to have an opinion of its own)
2 x i-Pods
2 x Kindles
1 x i-Pad
2 x digital cameras
1 x docking station

Also;
Riedel wine glasses
Crystal Champagne flutes
Small wine cellar
Outdoor furniture
BBQ
Gazebo (with yoga room)
And, a scooter called MoJo.

Mmmm - whats' wrong with this picture??

Kate and MoJo

Mog Makeover

As promised, here is the result of my interior decorating venture. The living area was looking a bit tired and dark, so some sprucing up was required.

My friends and family will know that I can't sew on a button, so this was a big undertaking. We bought the  fabric from IKEA (sorry Julian, more IKEA), and the rest from the hardware store, staple gun, hardboard and paint. Navigating our way around a french hardware store was a challenge in itself. The task of reupholstery wasn't too difficult once I realised that the staple gun wasn't faulty and it was user error - staples in upside-down. Oh dear.

Here are the before and after photos.

Before

After